dnaj
1st Gear
Posts: 67
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Post by dnaj on Sept 16, 2014 8:13:08 GMT -5
My main fuse used to blow intermittently with the bike running. This is a bike I got running from sitting around a lot. History is unknown. So far, I only run it on the lift for several minutes at a time. The first time the fuse blew, I thought no big deal. Cleaned the connections, replaced the fuse, no problem for quite some time. Now it's taken to blow the same fuse much more frequently under the same conditions, lately it actually melted the fuse holder, so I know there is a problem. It may be a coincidence, but I noticed with the headlight OFF, it blew more quickly. I have to get pack of 20A fuses. Then I can check the battery/charging voltage when running. Might that cause this problem without melting the diode connection first? What else might I check or where to begin? This is not a dead short, or it would blow much more quickly.
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Post by goandy on Sept 16, 2014 11:05:34 GMT -5
Could be so many things. Have you checked your rectifier and regulator? Mine was blowing fuses and the rectifier was bad.
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Post by HGH 770N on Sept 16, 2014 16:19:26 GMT -5
I have seen several connections from the rectifier melt and then short out and blow the fuse. Check the block connections for corrosion and shorting between the live wires that would overload the battery and blow fuses.
Rog
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dnaj
1st Gear
Posts: 67
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Post by dnaj on Sept 29, 2014 15:40:44 GMT -5
"block connections". Sorry for sounding dumb, do you mean those connections around the rectifier, the regulator, the engine ground or somewhere else? I know, I will check them all but I'm not clear on your specific recommended area. Thanks
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Post by tom93gts on Sept 29, 2014 15:54:30 GMT -5
The rectifier has a connector with just a couple inches of wiring to it. It's a big white block with 6 (or was it 8?) pins in it. Mine started melting and I replaced the connecter and the rectifier to fix it.
If you disconnect that connector odds are pretty good that the connections inside aren't very pretty any more and this is related to your problem.
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Post by HGH 770N on Sept 30, 2014 11:23:10 GMT -5
As Tom says . White 6 block connector under the seat on top of battery , also The wire from rectifire is usually bent up between the battery box and frame, check that has not frayed and shorted out also.
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dnaj
1st Gear
Posts: 67
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Post by dnaj on Sept 30, 2014 12:27:58 GMT -5
Yup, both of those. Two melted blades in the rectifier plug and some iffy wires to wrap. Did not know the term "block connecter" thanks.
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dnaj
1st Gear
Posts: 67
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Post by dnaj on Oct 1, 2014 9:22:21 GMT -5
OK, so I put in a new/old rectifier from RR and cleaned up the two iffy looking wires on the six block connector. Put a voltmeter on the bike and ran it for a few minutes. Voltage running did not exceed 14.2 volts (my battery was not quite fully charged to begin with). I ran the bike for minute or two and I could see the rectifier getting got at those two wires, particularly the red one) from the rectifier again became hot, even smoked a bit. I shut her down before the rest of the circuit got hot. I think my next step is to replace the connector. (I'll pull the two iffy wires out of the block connector and shunt them with a insulated metric torpedo connector) and chase down the red wire via the wiring diagram, but the wire harness looks unmolested. Thoughts anyone?
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Post by HGH 770N on Oct 3, 2014 6:22:09 GMT -5
I would run the bike without connector block connected and check voltage from the 3 live wires from alternator. if they are equal you could mega through wiring loom and see were it is shorting out.
Rog
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Post by jm0406 on Oct 3, 2014 10:05:58 GMT -5
Also, a good full charged battery is important so as to not overload the marginal charging circuit.
Jeff
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dnaj
1st Gear
Posts: 67
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Post by dnaj on Oct 7, 2014 14:07:33 GMT -5
Ok, so for checking shorts, I tried to find symptoms without the bike running. If the loom or component is shorted it should stay shorted whether running on the battery or alternator. That said, all wires stay cool, no funny loads, with the key on but bike not running. Checking each component separately yields no shorts or problems other than a non working front brake switch which I disconnected. If the overload comes only when the bike running, it must be something that operates only when running. That leaves the CDI or the charging system. Since the bike runs fine, I should look at the charging systems. So that brings me back where I started.
Diode block checks out fine, even tried a second rectifier. Went to check the voltage regulator, while I do get 14.3 volts tops at the battery while running, the resistance specs on the v-reg do not match the book. I get virtually nothing across the 10 ohm resister with the armature open. I get about 15 ohms across the coil where book says I should get 90, but I checked a regulator on a parts bike and got about the same readings. My next step is to use a digital meter over my old analog. After that, will check the stator windings. I am thinking about using one of those universal regulator/rectifier offerd by a third party vendor (RR was out of them before they closed). Has anyone tried those third part universal recited coil reg/rectifiers? More thots?
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dnaj
1st Gear
Posts: 67
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Post by dnaj on Oct 8, 2014 9:34:45 GMT -5
Well digital voltmeter registered completely different readings than my old analog one. Moral of the story, don't use an analog meter for anything other than continuity. While static readings on two regulators were similar, one was closer to spec then the other. Neither were terribly close, e.g. 113 ohms versus spec. at 90. 6 ohms versus spec at 10. For giggles I put the better of the two on and the bike runs cool. That said, I'm thinking about using a one of the universal regulator/rectifiers, transpo makes one for our 3 phase excited coil. Anyone have experience with it?
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Post by goandy on Oct 8, 2014 21:15:14 GMT -5
Bike runs cool? Probably a voltage difference so the temp gauge reads lower. Just a thought. My temp gauge was doing all sorts of funny things when my reg went bad.
As for the universal rec/regs- I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'll be getting one some time.
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dnaj
1st Gear
Posts: 67
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Post by dnaj on Oct 9, 2014 10:28:13 GMT -5
Bike runs cool? Probably a voltage difference so the temp gauge reads lower. Just a thought. My temp gauge was doing all sorts of funny things when my reg went bad. I meant the wires. They don't get hot now. I ordered a universal. Ill let you know how it goes.
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gerryggg
2nd Gear
I'm Lost In Thought, Please Send a Search Party.
Posts: 225
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Post by gerryggg on Oct 17, 2014 17:06:40 GMT -5
I always check both the voltage and the amperage when checking a charging system. I put the voltmeter on the battery and the amp meter in series with the main fuse. These bikes have a mechanical voltage regulator and if it's misadjusted it is possible to get voltage about what you'd expect and high amperage if the battery isn't fully charged. This results in the wattage being higher than expected which will increase the heat. If your battery wasn't fully charged I wouldn't think you'd get 14.2 volts. Most EMS systems run less than 4 amps at 5000 rpm if the battery is fully charged (~14 volts). If you're running 6 amps plus with the battery voltage at 14+ you might want to try turning the regulator down a little and see if it helps. It wouldn't hurt to inspect the contacts in the regulator while you have the cover off.
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